The Blue Diamond Discus

The Blue Diamond Discus has been selectively bred for its brilliant blue colouration. It's distinguishing feature is the small white markings on it's body. However, the overall coloration of Discus will vary depending on mood and overall health of the fish. The Discus has surpassed the Angelfish as the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Depending on sub-species, the natural range of the Discus extends from the Amazon to the Rio Negro Regions of South America.
The Blue Diamond Discus requires an advanced level of care due to its feeding habits and water filtration requirements. Territorial during spawning, this otherwise peaceful fish is among the schooling group, forming a well-defined nuclear family.

Becoming slightly territorial when breeding, it is best to breed an established pair, or maintain a group of young Discus and allow them to pair themselves. Warm, soft, slightly acidic water is required for spawning. The pair will clean a flat surface (usually a broad leaf or the side of the aquarium) prior to spawning. The parents must not be removed from the fry; the fry feed on their parents' mucus.

Largely carnivorous, the Blue Diamond Discus prefer freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, pellet food designed for Discus, high-quality flake food, and meaty frozen foods.

Blue Diamond Discus

Care LevelModerate

TemperamentPeaceful

Color FormBlue

DietCarnivore

Water Conditions79-86° F, KH 1-3, pH 6.1-7.5

Max. Size8"

OriginCaptive-Bred, Malaysia

FamilyCichlidae

Minimum Tank Size55 gallons

CompatibilityView Chart

The Blue Diamond Discus has been selectively bred for its brilliant blue coloration. It's distinguishing feature is the small white markings on it's body. However, the overall coloration of Discus will vary depending on mood and overall health of the fish. The Discus has surpassed the Angelfish as the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Depending on sub-species, the natural range of the Discus extends from the Amazon to the Rio Negro Regions of South America.

The Blue Diamond Discus requires an advanced level of care due to its feeding habits and water filtration requirements. Territorial during spawning, this otherwise peaceful fish is among the schooling group, forming a well-defined nuclear family.

Becoming slightly territorial when breeding, it is best to breed an established pair, or maintain a group of young Discus and allow them to pair themselves. Warm, soft, slightly acidic water is required for spawning. The pair will clean a flat surface (usually a broad leaf or the side of the aquarium) prior to spawning. The parents must not be removed from the fry; the fry feed on their parents' mucus.

Largely carnivorous, the Blue Diamond Discus prefer freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, pellet food designed for Discus, high-quality flake food, and meaty frozen foods.

Approximate Purchase Size: 2" to 3-1/2"

Blue Diamond Discus

Blue Diamond Discus

(Symphysodon spp.)

Quick Care Facts

Care Level: Moderate

Temperament: Peaceful

Maximum Size: 8"

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons

Water Conditions: 78-86° F, KH 1-3, pH 6.0-7.5

Diet: Omnivore

Origin: Amazon, South America

Family: Cichlidae

Species: Discus

Aquarium Type: Community

Species Information

Blue Diamond Discus were originally developed by breeders from Malaysia and Hong Kong, who found that some Blue Turquise Discus fry were transparent in color. When these transparent fry were grown out, their bodies were solid blue in color without any markings or patterns on their body, gill covers or fins. Quality Blue Diamond Discus should exhibit a solid blue body and red eyes, with some specimens exhibiting a slight yellow coloration on the caudal (tail) fin.

Wild Discus originate from the Amazon River Systems of South America, where they were first imported into the aquarium hobby in the early 1930s. Ever since their introduction into the hobby to this day, Discus are considered one of the most colorful, demanding, rewarding and expensive of all tropical freshwater aquarium fish species. Due to their popularity and the high price tag that they command, Discus are very popular with fish breeders.

Over the years breeders have not only raised enough tank-bred specimens to largely fulfill the demand from the aquarium hobby, but have developed completely new color strains and patterns as well. Discus are very popular amongst intermediate to advanced fish keepers, and are widely considered to be one of the most rewarding and challenging to keep of the freshwater tropical community fish species available within the hobby.

In the wild, Discus are found living in the upper tributaries of the Rio Negro and Rio Madiera along with the surrounding lakes and flood plains. The water is very low in mineral content, which makes it "soft" water with a low pH ranging from 4.0 to 7.0. The water also maintains very stable and consistent water parameters year round, including water temperatures that range between 80 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit both during the day and night.

When keeping Blue Diamond Discus in the home aquarium, it is extremely important to replicate their natural surroundings and water parameters as closely as possible. It is also very important to maintain very consistent water parameters that have very little pH, temperature and dissolved mineral fluctuations.

Aquarium Care

Blue Diamond Discus aquariums should closely resemble their natural Amazonian habitat with plenty of plants and branching root. Water parameters should be very consistent with a pH near 6.8 to 7.2, temperature between 82° to 86° Fahrenheit with low to medium water currents. Discus can thrive in a wider range of water parameters as long as the changes are not sudden and the fish has adequate time to adjust to changing parameters. Blue Diamond Discus should not be housed with aggressive or boisterous fish species or in aquariums with intense lighting or strong water currents.

If strong aquarium lighting is used for plant growth, be sure that the density of the plant life is great enough to provide shaded areas for the Blue Diamond Discus to retreat to when needed. Strong biological and mechanical filtration along with weekly partial water changes are required to keep water quality high and water parameters consistent.

When keeping Discus with live plants, it is best to keep the aquarium pH between 6.0 to 6.8 and a lower water hardness of 150 PPM or less. Lastly, be sure to maintain excellent water quality at all times as Discus do not leave a lot of room for error when it comes to water quality and consistency. Recommended tank mates include: most Tetra species, loaches, cory catfish, smaller Plecostomus species, Siamese Algae Eaters, Ottocinclus, Rams, peaceful Rasbora species, Rainbow fish, Hatchet fish and Pencilfish.

Breeding Information

Being closely related to the freshwater Amazonian Angelfish, it was assumed that Discus breeding requirements would be the same. Early hobbyists removed the eggs, attempted to hatch them in a separate tank and grow the fry on. We now know this is not possible with Discus because fry consume the mucus excreted from the sides of the parents. Discus were not successfully spawned until the late fifties with Jack Wattley in America and Eduard Schmidt-Focke in Germany doing the pioneering work.

During the 1970s breeders began to concentrate on producing more colorful Discus with a broader range of colors and patterns. They selectively bred specimens for their blue striations that eventually produced Turquoise and Cobalt Discus, while other breeders intensified the natural red striations that later produced Blue Diamond Discus and Blue Diamond Discus.

The 1980s and 1990s saw an explosion in new Discus mutations with the development of the Ghost, Snake Skin, Pigeon Blood, Blue Diamond, Snow White and Albino Discus variations. Through selective breeding, todays aquarium hobbyists can choose from a wide variety of brightly colored and varied patterned Discus now available within the hobby.

Feeding & Nutrition

Blue Diamond Discus should be fed a variety of nutritional meaty foods including: white worms, blood worms, Tubifex worms, high protein pellet and flake foods. Juvenile Blue Diamond Discus should be fed at least 3 to 5 times per day, while adult specimens should be fed 2 to 3 times per day. Their overall diet should be higher in proteins and fats then the average tropical fish species.

As with most other fish species, they should be fed an amount of food that they will consume within 10 minutes, with leftover foods removed from the system by either a quality mechanical filter or manually if strong filtration is not present.

Beautiful Blue Diamonds Discus

Common Name: Blue Diamond Discus, Discus

Scientific Name: Symphysodon Aequifaciatus sp.

Average Adult Fish Size: 8 inches / 20 cm

Place of Origin: Amazon basin of S. America

Typical Tank Setup: Well planted with driftwood / bogwood and some rock work.

Recommended Minimum Aquarium Capacity: 40 gallon / 160 litre

Compatibility: Discus are a very peaceful fish and should be kept with other peaceful fish like some of the S. American dwarf cichlid species and tetras. They do best when kept as a group of 6 or more.

Temperature: 82 – 88 Deg F / 28 – 30 Deg C

Water Chemistry: Juvenile and wild F1 Discus generally require softer water and a lower pH than tank raised Discus. The best thing is to simulate the conditions your Discus were raised in. Wild Discus require pH 6.0 – 6.5 while tank raised Discus can go all the way up to 8.0 pH.

Feeding: When purchasing, always ask what they are being fed. Discus can be quite particular when it comes to food, but can be trained to readily accept almost any type of food. Tank mates that eat the food that you want them to eat will encourage Discus to eat it also. They WILL eat a broad range of foods from flakes, small pellets, frozen, and live worms along with brine shrimp, but not always on the first attempt. DO NOT feed them tubifex worms. Tubifex carries too many pathogens and the risk of introducing disease to your Discus is too great a risk. Hole-in-the-head disease (HITH) is associated with poor water quality and feeding tubifex.

Sexing: Venting is the best way to sex Discus.

Breeding: Discus will lay their eggs on broad leaved plants like Amazon Swords or almost any vertical flat surface that is to their liking. Fry are best kept with the parents as they will eat the slime that the parents secrete. At two weeks of age they will start to accept finely ground flake food or baby brine shrimp.

Additional Information: There are almost too may different color variations of Discus with new ones coming out all the time. They are not difficult to keep as long as water parameters and temperature are to their liking. They can be a shy fish, because of this the aquarium should not be placed in high traffic areas where people are always walking by. A novice fish keeper will have better success with Discus that are larger than 3 inches in size.

Blue Diamond Discus were originally developed by breeders from Malaysia and Hong Kong, who found that some Blue Turquise Discus fry were transparent in color. When these transparent fry were grown out, their bodies were solid blue in color without any markings or patterns on their body, gill covers or fins. Quality Blue Diamond Discus should exhibit a solid blue body and red eyes, with some specimens exhibiting a slight yellow coloration on the caudal (tail) fin. Wild Discus originate from the Amazon River Systems of South America, where they were first imported into the aquarium hobby in the early 1930s. Ever since their introduction into the hobby to this day, Discus are considered one of the most colorful, demanding, rewarding and expensive of all tropical freshwater aquarium fish species. Due to their popularity and the high price tag that they command, Discus are very popular with fish breeders. Over the years breeders have not only raised enough tank-bred specimens to largely fulfill the demand from the aquarium hobby, but have developed completely new color strains and patterns as well. Discus are very popular amongst intermediate to advanced fish keepers, and are widely considered to be one of the most rewarding and challenging to keep of the freshwater tropical community fish species available within the hobby.

Tips on Increasing Discus Spawn Yields

If you are not getting many discus fry from your discus breeding pair spawns, then try some of these tips below to hopefully help maximize your discus spawn yields.

Lower Water Hardness in Breeder Tank- This is probably the first tip to try if your discus spawns are having terrible hatch rates. Having hard water in your discus breeding aquarium will cause the shell of the newly laid discus eggs to harden quickly. This makes it very difficult for the male discus to fertilize these eggs. Try lowering your water hardness to around 100 to 200 microsiemens. The softer water should give the male plenty of time to fertilize the spawn.

Keep Breeder Tank Super Clean - It's important to keep your breeder aquarium very clean. Wipe down all the sides and surfaces when doing a water change. Try to do at least two 25% water changes during the week. Clean water will reduce the chances of bad bacteria or fungus killing your discus spawn. Keep your filters clean as well.

Use a Diatom Filter - A diatom filter will help super clean your breeder tank. Diatomaceous earth filters can filter the water down to 1 micron. They'll even remove parasites, like gill flukes, that are a common killer of small discus fry. The best time to use the diatom filter is right after you've cleaned the breeder tank and did a water change. You only need to run the diatomaceous earth filter for a few hours.

Clean all Spawning Surfaces - It's important to keep the discus fish spawning surfaces clean in your breeder aquarium. Clean all spawning slates, bricks, cones or PVC pipes in your aquarium at least twice a week.

Methylene Blue - Adding Methylene Blue to your discus breeding tank after they've finished spawning will help protect the eggs from bacteria and fungus. Just remember that methylene blue will probably stain the silicon seals in your glass aquarium.

Protect Spawn with Wire Mesh - Many large spawns are lost because the pair will eat the eggs or wrigglers. Try putting a stainless steel wire mesh around the spawn so the pair can still take care of the eggs and wrigglers, but will be unable to eat them.

Remove the Bad Discus Parent - Many times it's only one mate of the discus breeding pair that has an appetite for eggs or wrigglers. Monitor a spawn to see which one is eating the eggs and remove it from the breeding tank. Don't leave the baby fry with the lone parent for a long time, especially if it's a large spawn. Start feeding baby brine shrimp 2 days after the fry are free swimming.

Use Surrogate Discus Parents - If you have a pair that constantly eats it's spawn, you might want to remove the eggs and put them in a tank with another discus pair that also has a spawn. With luck, the other pair will take care of the 2nd spawn as its own.

Treat Pair For Gill Flukes - If your discus fry starts dying when they are pea size, they probably have gill flukes. Treat the discus breeding tank for gill flukes.

Stop Water Flow Near Spawn Area- If your pairs are in a central system, you might want to reduce or even stop water flow from entering the breeding aquarium while the discus pairs are spawning. Strong water current can flush the sperm away from the eggs causing them to remain unfertile.

Filters or airstones near a spawn can also cause the water flow to flush away the male's sperm from the spawn. Move the filters or airstones away from pair while they are spawning. You might even want to turn off the filter while they are spawning. Just remember to turn it back on after the discus pair has finished spawning(usually less than 45 minutes).

Try Using Another Male Discus - Unfortunately, many male discus are not as fertile as their owners would like them to be. Some causes might be from too much inbreeding or hormones given to them to enhance color when they were young. If your discus pair has spawned many times with very few eggs ever becoming fertile, you probably should replace the male discus with another fish. If it's a young pair, you might want to give them more time. A young male discus might need many spawns before he gets the fertilization process right. Breeding discus takes patience.

Artificially Raise the Spawn - If both discus fish parents are egg eaters, wriggler eaters and free swimming fry eaters, then you just might have to take the eggs away from them and artificially raise the discus spawn yourself.

Discus fish Information

Introduction to Discus Fish


Discus fish is the most beautiful of all tropical fish which is also known as Cobalt Discus, Blue Discus, Blue Faced Discus, Blue-Head Discus, Red Thunder Discus etc. They are also sometimes called the King of Aquarium fish. It is native to the Amazon River basin and its natural range extends down the Rio Solimões and along the main Amazon River between the Rio Putamayo in Colombia and Peru as far as the Rio Tocantins drainage in Brazil. It inhabits in the still or slow moving, soft, acidic waters and they prefer to live in deep sheltered areas around tree roots and rocks. It is a very friendly fish and it is often found in large groups in their native habitats and it likes to stay in the shadow during the day.






Discus fish’s Overview


It is one of the most popular ornamental fish species in the world. Body is almost circular or disc shaped with strong lateral compression. It has small mouth with a steep rising forehead, small bright red eyes and large extended fins. The body has nine dark and vertical stripes and their body base colors usually range from dark brownish to blue and green hues. They are also spotted and striated with blotches of black, yellow and red pigmentation. Dorsal and Anal fins are rounded with a long base while the caudal fin is indented and the pelvic fins are saber shaped. It is a carnivore fish and in wild condition, it mainly feeds on small fish and fry along with larvae, other aquatic insects and invertebrates such as worms. It prefers water chemistry with pH of 6.0-6.5, water hardness of 10 – 150 dGH and water temperature of 82.0 to 88.0° F. It can grow up to 22 cm in length and 250 grams in weight. It can live up to 10 years or more.
Background of Discus Fish


The Discus was first described by Dr. Heckel in 1840 and it was first imported into the United States and Europe in 1930 and 1940, respectively. It belongs to the family Cichlidae under order Perciformes of class Actinopterygii. According to Fishbase, there are three species of discus fish such as Symphysodon aequifasciatus – Blue Discus, Symphysodon discus– Heckel or Red Discus and Symphysodon tarzoo– Tarzoo Discus. Today, the Discus is listed as a Threatened species in the IUCN Red Data List due to over exploitation.

Feeding Discus Fish


Discus are a carnivore fish and in wild condition, they mainly feeds on small fish and


fry along with larvae, other aquatic insects and invertebrates such as worms.


In captive condition, generally they accept a wide variety of all kinds of live and frozen


foods such as live brine shrimp, bloodworms, chopped beef heart and white worms.


It also eats Tetra Min flakes, Tetra Color Bits, Tetra Prima, spirulina flakes, spinach,


discus pellets and small fish. Feed should be supplied 2-3 times a day.






Housing Discus Fish


The Discus fish is one of the more difficult tropical fish to keep and it is not


recommended for beginners. This fish requires 50 gallons aquarium with good water


movement along with strong and efficient filtration. Carbon filtration can help


maintain water quality. Discus fish prefers excellent water conditions with warm,


soft and slightly acidic water. The tank should have an open area for swimming with


some aquatic plants like the Dwarf Lily Bulbs, Water Onions, Ozelot Swords,


Rangeri Swords and fern and moss type plants like the Java Fern and Subulata.


It is a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of around 6 individuals or more.


Suitable tank mates include Characin species like the Cardinal Tetra, Neon Tetra,


Rummynose Tetra, Glowlight Tetra, Emperor Tetra or Congo Tetra. It should not be


kept with Angelfishes and Corydoras Catfish. Discus fish is very sensitive to water


fluctuations and at least 25 % tank water should be changed every week to make


the tank environment healthy.


Breeding Discus Fish


The blue discus is an egg layers and it can breed in captive condition.


The female lays 200-400 eggs which attach to plants, driftwoods, rocks and


ornamentations in the aquarium. The eggs are fertilized by the male after the


eggs are all laid. Water conditions for breeding should be slightly acidic, soft and


warm with a pH of about 6.0 – 6.5, hardness of about 10 – 150 dGH and the


temperature should be between 82 – 88° F. The parents guard the eggs.


Eggs hatch in about 2 days. The parents should remain with the fry.


The fry feed on skin secretions from the parents for the first 10 days, after


which the parents should be removed from the tank.


The fry should be fed with brine shrimp.

Sexing discus fish


It is hard to distinguish the sex. During breeding season, the males bear more pointed


papillae while the female’s papilla is rounded. Males may be larger and some males


have a more pointed dorsal fin and thicker lips.


Discus Fish for sale and where to buy


This fish is often considered as the most beautiful of all freshwater fish.


It is called the King of the Cichlids by many hobbyists. It is available in pet store,


breeders, especially dealers and online. It is moderate to moderately expensive.


Prices vary depending on size and variety. There are many online vendors that


specifically sell Discus. See below online vendor and you can buy your favorite


fish that I would recommend from.

Symphysodon Discus - Pompadour Fish

Symphysodon Discus are among the most stunning of all aquarium fish, have always been and still remain an oddity and a beautiful addition to any large show aquarium to this day. Originally, the Discus was made internationally popular by Dr. Herbert R. Axelrod.

When Dr. Axelrod first introduced the Discus to the wonderful world of fish keeping, it was impossible for any but the most experienced aquarist to maintain a proper environment to house even one of these beautiful feats of nature, let alone breed a pair. Today, many enjoy whole collections of brightly colored specimens, though special care must still be taken for best results.

The Origin and Profile of the Discus

The Discus, like the Angelfish (Pterophyllum) and Cichlasoma festivum, inhabit the gigantic region included under the name Amazonas, extending from the middle reaches of the Amazon River too far into the jungles of the Venezuelan and Peruvian flood basins.

The Discus is quite commonly found there among profuse plant growth in the quiet bends of the rivers, under overhanging banks, and among rock crannies. In the shallow areas, it cares for its young beneath the numerous leaves of various Nymphaea species.

Ever since the Discus Fish was first introduced to the aquarists in 1933, they created a sensation. For years afterward, the Discus was regarded as the king of the aquarium fish. Even today, many aquarists regard the Discus as the choicest tropical fish available, the most challenging of all freshwater tropical fish to keep and the badge of honor for those few aquarists who are lucky enough to have a Discus or two in their collection.

It is easy to understand why the mature Discus Fish should be regarded as the most regal of aquarium fish. They swim about with a noble bearing and a touch of shyness. Fully grown, an adult Discus can reach as large as 6 inches end to end, and in good condition, they possess great beauty, both in bearing and coloration.

Sexual Differences

Can be sexed only by experts; at spawning time the genital papilla is pointed in males, flat and round in females. When viewed from the top at breeding time, females are slightly fatter, due to filling with roe (eggs).

Common Behaviour

Very peaceful, doesn’t burrow in the substrate (dig in the gravel like many cichlids) and does not dig up nor tear up plants. The Discus lives in harmony with other fish, except at spawning time, when they will vigorously defend their young. It is best to get a group of young Discus and let them pair off, a Discus will mate for life; it will be obvious when mates have found each other, and they will no longer hang out with the group, but stake out their own portion of the aquarium, establishing their own territory. Only one pair should be left in any one aquarium if you want successful breeding to commence. Remove the rest of the young to another aquarium, where it is likely another pair may find each other.

Water Conditions

The Discus needs very pure clear clean water, which is filtered through peat, and in a well established planted aquarium. The temperature should be a steady 82F, pH 6.5 – 7.5 1 – 12 dH. For breeding we recommend you read further articles, however in brief; 86F, pH 6 – 6.5, 0 – 5 dH.

Feeding the Discus

The Discus is a finicky eater, it is very important that you give the Discus a diet of live and frozen food. If you do not, they will quickly die on a diet of dry flake food, though it may be offered as a supplement occasionally. Also for rearing fry; you will find that the fry feeds off the parent's sides, yes just as you would image a mammal would feed off its mother, but this means they (both the male and the female) need extra protein.

Aquarium Requirements

An absolute minimum size aquarium for a Discus is 40 inches long by 20 inches wide and 20 inches tall for young Discus. Adult Discus needs a 5-foot long aquarium or about 75-gallon minimum to be happy and have any chance of breeding successfully. It can possibly happen in a smaller aquarium, it happens all the time, but for maximum success with one of the most finicky fish in freshwater fish keeping, we suggest 75 gallons minimum well planted and well filtered. Discus does not like changes in water conditions, and the larger the body of water, the more gradual the change in water conditions.

More Facts About the King of Fresh Water Fish

Viewed from the front Discus are extremely thin for their size, but from the side, they are nearly round. This is how they got the name discus, which is Latin for plate or dish. Their basic body color in nature is brown. Brilliant blue bars cover both dorsal and anal fins, and the bars extend onto the back and stomach. Dorsal, ventral, and anal fins are edged in bright red. There is a variety of discus, from Lake Tefe, Brazil, that has bright metallic green or blue bars all over its fins and body. This variety is occasionally called the Royal Discus.

Over the decades, many varieties have appeared, red, yellow, even a beautiful orange to a yellow burst of color called the Sunset Discus. All of these varieties are not from nature, like many of the fish we keep in our aquariums today; they have been developed over many years of careful breeding by experts.

One of the most exciting and unique things discovered about the Discus is the way they feed their young or fry. For the first 4 days or so the parents move the fry from one place to another in the aquarium, much like angel fish. Then, when the fry become free swimming, they go immediately to the parent’s side, literally.

At first, it looks like they are clinging to their sides for protection, but upon closer inspection, you will find they are eating something from under the parent’s scales. The Fry will dig their heads in under a scale and jerk from side to side breaking off “food”. Eventually, the one parent tires of this constant pecking and shakes the fry off her sides, the fry go immediately to dad and do the same thing.

Back and forth for weeks, until they are mature enough that the young discus is ready for life on its own among the plants in the aquarium. Great parents, great story, and if you have the patience and expertise to raise Discus, a great experience to keep the king of the aquarium, The Discus!

A GUIDE TO CARING & BREEDING FOR DISCUS FISH

Discus

A GUIDE TO CARING & BREEDING FOR DISCUS FISH

Discus are colorful, graceful and charismatic tank inhabitants. Discus are considered to require a higher level of care than other aquarium fish. Their basic requirements are a larger aquarium (3ft+ is recommended) and stable, clean water. For this reason alone they are not recommended for the beginner aquarist. Discus can be housed with many any other fish as long as they require the same water conditions. They are not compatible with larger aggressive fish such as oscar's or smaller fin nipping varieties.

For more information on a specific type of discus, click on the below links.

• 
  Blue Diamond Discus

• Checkerboard Discus

Discus do best with smaller tetra’s such as neon tetras, cardinal tetras, ember tetras, harlequin tetras and rummynose tetras. Tetras are usually the most common compliment to discus as they contrast the size and add movement to the aquarium.

Temperature ~84°F

• The optimum aquarium temperature for Discus is around 82°F - 88°F (28°C-31°C). Note that higher temperatures such as these lower dissolved oxygen and limit the number of fish housed in the aquarium. When choosing other fish to go in the aquarium try and fit them in this temperature bound.

pH ~6.5 | Hardness 4.0

• Keep your pH between about 6 and 7. The ideal pH for discus is around 6.5. If your pH is over 7 or below 6 it may begin to cause discus stress. Tank bred Discus species have been known to thrive in pH as high as 7.8 as long as there is little/no fluctuation.
• Relative water hardness should be 1dH - 8dH. This will replicate relatively soft conditions similar to the amazon. Some tank bred variety's are known to withstand higher dH. Water hardness can be softened with the addition of a piece of diftwood to the aquarium water.

Max Size ~6.5"

• Both males and females can grow to around 6.5" (16.5cm) over the course of two years.

Nitrite 0ppm

• Discus are highly susceptible to even very low levels of nitrite in the aquarium.

Ammonia 0ppm

• Discus are very sensitive to any ammonia levels. There will be noticeable loss of color and heavy breathing if ammonia is present. An immediate water change is required.

Nitrate >20ppm

• Nitrates should be as close to 0ppm as possible. Any reading under 20ppm is suitable for keeping Discus, elevated levels can be reduced by adding aquatic plants and removing any decaying matter.

Water Changes >50%

• Discus require the aquarium water should be changed at least 50% each week to reduce nitrates and replenish minerals. Discus are messy feeders and big contributors to nitrates in the aquarium. Be sure to dechlorinate the water before it is changed.
• 
  

Housing Discus

• Discus are usually combined with planted aquariums. Planted tanks with CO2 injection will usually exhibit a lower pH of around 6.8 which is perfect for Discus. Discus, originally a species from the amazon will feel right at home with a mixture of long stem plants and lower foreground plants. Driftwood is also an excellent compliment that will help these fish feel at home. It will add to the beauty of the aquarium and it will also soften the water and lower the pH to a suitable environment.
• Alternatively, Discus can be housed in a bare bottomed tank. Some hobbyists believe this is the best way to care for discus even though it is not as aesthetically pleasing. Having no substrate allows the tank to be easily cleaned from faeces and rotting debris. This is a sure way to keep the water quality stable and immaculate. When breeding Discus it is highly recommended to put them into a bare bottomed tank. This has a number of advantages including a safe environment for the young and easy aquarium maintenance.

Acclimatizing the Discus

• Ensure the aquarium has been chemically tested and it is within the parameters listed above. Discus are susceptible to rapid changes in water quality.
• It is an excellent idea to add a deworming medication while acclimatizing your discus and they are not in the aquarium. It may compound stress to the introduction process, but healthy discus are usually quite resilient for shorter periods of stress. This will ensure your aquarium and discus are free of any parasites and remain healthy in the long term.
• Using air-line tubing and a rubber band, create a siphon from the aquarium and kink the tubing by placing the rubber band over a bent section of the tube. Adjust the kink to allow a slow drip of 1-3 drops of water per second exiting the tube into a bucket or other with the discus. Let this drip into the bucket for the next 20-30 minutes and monitor closely.
• After 20-30 minutes carefully use a soft mesh net to transfer the discus into the aquarium and monitor their progress.
• If a situation does arise check the water immediately for both temperature and chemical parameters. Perform a water change and try to identify the problem.

Feeding Discus

• Discus will usually take a variety of foods, but due to their carnivorous nature they do best with blood worms, beef heart and then pellets and flakes to provide them with vitamins and minerals.
• For the best coloration of discus you will need to feed them a varied diet of processed and frozen live foods. Granules are usually the best processed option as discus prefer to feed from the middle of the tank. Discus are usually less fond of feeding at the surface. Live or Frozen Bloodworms in a small feeder cone are great. Beware of live blackworms as they often carry parasites that can cause your discus to become unwell.
• Frozen Beef heart that is broken up is an excellent treat for discus. The downside of beef heart is it can pollute the tank, so be sure to do regular maintenance and turn off the filters during feeding time.

Breeding Discus - Requirements

• Discus will readily reproduce in the aquarium but you may need to dedicate months, even a year (if you start out with juveniles) to the prospect. Until recently they had only successfully been bred in captivity a few times and only then by dedicated individuals. However very recently hobbyists have had widespread success breeding discuss by following a few key steps.
• A Discus couple will not spawn in an aquarium that is too shallow. You will need a depth of at least 15 inches due to their tall shape. Smaller 15" cube aquariums can be used for breeding especially because they allow close contact of the breeding partners. However a deeper 36 inches x 18 inches x 18 inches aquarium would be spacious and humane for a suitable breeding pair.
• Make sure the temperature is above 82 F, it needs to be a warmer climate to try and coax them into mating behavior. Replicating the summer and therefore 'rainy' climate of the amazon is a common tool in breeding aquarium fish.
• The pH will need to be kept as close to 6.5 as possible and as stable as possible. The summer amazon rainstorms collect substrate and mud in the wild softening the water. The aquarium water will need to be as soft as possible from 1-4dH. Soft water has poor buffering ability hence it is important to check the water each day to ensure the parameters remain stable (especially pH). You will need to keep nitrates at a minimum by performing water changes every week and siphoning out the waste. About 30-50% will be perfect. These water changes are important and also signify breeding conditions to the breeding Discus.
• When feeding breeding Discus, protein rich foods are the best choice. Diversifying food sources will help to balance the Discus diet. Professional breeders use beef heart but this should also be combined with bloodworms and vegetable matter such as spinach to aid in vitamin uptake. To keep them in good health use some high grade tropical granules twice a week to supply them with the required nutrients and vitamins they may be lacking.
• Placing an upturned clay pot or cone in the discus tank will give a hard surface for the discus to lay eggs on. Be sure the surface is clean and will not pollute the aquarium. Professional plastic cones are sold on line that have been used with proven results. These may be a good consideration to increase laying chances.

Breeding Discus - Raising Young

• Place the spawning medium in the center of the aquarium. The discus will spawn eggs on one side and portion of the cone. The discus will begin cleaning the medium in preparation by constantly 'sucking' at the surface.
• If the discus have not visibly begun to clean the cone, recheck the water quality and ensure they are being fed consistently. It is at this stage it is imperative to ensure the water is soft. This is crucial in the formation of the eggs shell. In hard water conditions, Discus eggs can form an impenetrable shell which young cannot break.
• This stage is the longest of all stages and unfortunately the stage where chemistry is realized. Some discus pairs will never mate in the wild and many more will never mate in captivity. Tank bred Discus have a much higher chance of spawning when compared to wild Discus. This stage requires patience and careful monitoring.
• When and if the discus spawn in this stage, they will lay eggs every week for up to fifteen weeks. This cycle usually occurs twice a year and can be rigged with careful adjustment of feeding, temperature and water conditions. This point is extremely rewarding, Discus mate for life and will hopefully continue to mate for years ahead.
• After courting the eggs will then be laid on the cone or pots surface. They will be very small, mildly opaque spheres stuck to the cone in the order of thousands. The Discus will care for the eggs by constantly fanning them for aeration. The parenting Discus will even pick off and consume the unfertilized eggs to eliminate the chance of disease spreading to healthy eggs.
• From this stage the eggs will hatch within 48 hours. When the eggs hatch you they do not have to be fed directly as they instinctively feed off a secretion delivered from their mother. After 48 hours they should be free swimming and growing very quickly.
• Fry can stay with their parents for a lengthy period of time. However in captivity the young can become very aggressive and begin to remove scales from their mother. At the week old stage it is advisable to remove the parent Discus from the aquarium for their own safety. It is at this point it is necessary to raise the young with commercial food.
• Carefully cared for discus fry can yield survival rates of up to 70%. It is recommended to only sell the Discus young when they reach at least 2" in size. This is to ensure they are strong enough for travel and acclimatization into a new aquarium.