Showing posts with label Discus. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Discus. Show all posts

Friday, March 8, 2019

Discus Fish Feeding & Nutrition

In the dark, murky waters of the Amazon, wild discus fish typically feed on small worms, crustaceans, plant matter, insects, and detritus that gets flushed out of the surrounding forests by rainfall. In aquariums as pets, however, discus fish are much more picky eaters, as each fish, with its own individual personality, will prefer different types of foods. The topic of discus feeding and nutrition is one that many novice aquarists find to be quite challenging. One discus fish in the aquarium might eat flake food the second it touches the water, while another discus fish would rather starve to death than eat the flake food. Using the right combination of live, frozen, and freeze-dried food, however, is the key to maintaining healthy, well fed discus.

One of the biggest mistakes made by beginners is that they simply overfeed their discus fish. Overfeeding can lead to fish obesity, which comes with a whole list of health issues, and a dirty tank. A general rule of thumb used by many discus keepers is to feed them about 3% of their body weight per feeding. For example, an adult discus weighing 75 grams should be fed approximately 2.25 grams of food per twice daily feeding. Smaller discus will feed much faster than larger ones. If food is not consumed within 15 minutes of administering, then the food should be removed to maintain proper water cleanliness, something that discus fish are especially sensitive to. Live food should be administered as clumps directly into the tank, while flakes and freeze-dried food should be sprinkled on the surface of the water.
In the natural habitat of the Amazon, discus fish are carnivores, so those kept in aquariums should be fed a diet that meets the same nutritional needs as their relatives in the wild. Mature discus fish should be fed a diet that consists of about 35-45% protein, while younger and newly hatched fry and juveniles should be fed a diet containing up to 50% protein in order to accelerate their growth. It is important to note that their entire diet is not protein, however, and must be supplemented by both fats and vitamins. In order to obtain all of the correct ratios of protein to fat, fat to vitamins, etc., a combination of live food, frozen food, and freeze-dried food must be used. It is highly practical to have live food on hand, as newly born and recovering discus fish will most likely prefer to eat live food than freeze-dried flakes or frozen food right away.
Discus fish, like every other living organism, require certain vitamins in order to maintain their nutritional needs. Vitamins do not provide a source of energy, but instead provide the necessary building blocks for proper functioning, immune, reproductive, and digestive systems, especially for the production of enzymes within the body. Some of the best sources of vitamins for discus fish are crustaceans, vegetables, and algae.
Bloodworms, which are actually the larval stage of the mosquito are a very popular food type for discus fish. Bloodworms are rich in protein and can be administered live, frozen, and/or freeze-dried. Tubifex worms, which were a staple of the discus diet by breeders in the past, are another food source that is still used today, but much less often. Tubifex worms naturally feed on feces, so feeding a contaminated tubifex worm to your discus fish could result in food poisoning. Unlike humans, who are sick for a few days and recover, discus fish, when they consume contaminated food, will turn a blackish color and then die shortle after. Some people have had no problems and still use tubifex worms as a main food source, but others choose not to use them at all as a precautionary measure. White worms are another very popular live food to feed discus fish. White worms are stock full of proteins and are especially good for picky discus. At only half an inch in length, this protein packed discus superfood is easy for owners to cultivate home using just a plastic container and layer of peat soil. By feeding the worms a diet of bread, oats, and raw sausage mixed with water, one can easily establish their own breeding colony of white worms to serve as food for their discus fish. White worms are also especially beneficial for stimulating the conditioning and breeding of discus fish as they are also high in fat, allowing the fish to quickly add size and mass.
Another popular food type among discus keepers is beef heart, which is typically frozen. Discus beef heart, however, is not as easily attainable as the above-mentioned food types. Typically, to obtain beef heart, one must contact their local butcher days in advance and specifically ordered for. Beef heart must be used with caution, however, as it is not a normal part of the discus diet in the wild. Containing upwards of 18% saturated fat per serving, too much beef heart can lead to digestive issues and other related illnesses, but when administered in small, carefully regulated amounts, it can be highly beneficial to the fish. Countless discus breeders use beef heart to fill out smaller discus as it quickly adds size to make discus fish look bigger and stronger. It is also a quick way to raise baby fry. Some discus keepers choose to add combinations of different vegetables such as peas, carrots, cabbage, and red peppers to create a beef heart mixture that can be scooped into small spheres and placed at the bottom of the tank or to the sides. Chicken, turkey, and mutton hearts are also commonly used and mixed in with the beef heart to provide a variety of tastes to the finicky discus fish.
In addition to protein, discus fish also need an ample amount of fats in their diet in order to maintain optimum health. In addition to the live white worms mentioned above, crustacean oil is also an excellent source of fats necessary for the nutritional needs of the discus fish. Crustacean oil is typically omitted from flake foods so what many discus breeders choose to use are brine shrimp. High in both protein and fats, brine shrimp are an ideal food source, especially for young fry and juvenile discus. Like the white worms, brine shrimp can also be cultured at home, however it is slightly more difficult. The best method for cultivating brine shrimp seems to be using a large glass jar with thick walls and slowly producing enough algal growth to support the brine shrimp. By maintaining an ample amount of algae for the brine shrimp and keeping the salinity and oxygen levels at the appropriate parameters, the brine shrimp will be able to grow and eventually reproduce, a process that normally takes a relatively long amount of time in comparison to the rearing of live white worms.
Chris Ingham, author of the book Discus World: A Complete Manual for the Discus Keeper, has many years of experience in the art of discus keeping, and has developed his own line of discus food that features a combination of the above food sources as well as additional vitamins and nutrients that meet the nutritional need of discus fish. Discus Delights, is a popular option as it contains seven packets of food, one for each day of the week, that does not need to be frozen or refrigerated. Containing a mixture of beef heart, brine shrimp, granules, earthworm, and tropical flake medley, these packets offer discus keepers an easy and convenient way to properly administer the correct combination of protein, fats, vitamins, and nutrients that are essential to both growing out and maintaining discus fish.
When it comes to providing the proper nutrition and diet for your discus fish, it is important to invest the appropriate amount of time, money, and energy. Cutting corners, and not being fully invested into providing your discus fish with the optimum amount of care, will result in an unsuccessful and unhealthy discus tank.
Make sure to read our previous article on discus fish origin & history!


The Blue Diamond Discus

The Blue Diamond Discus has been selectively bred for its brilliant blue colouration. It's distinguishing feature is the small white markings on it's body. However, the overall coloration of Discus will vary depending on mood and overall health of the fish. The Discus has surpassed the Angelfish as the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Depending on sub-species, the natural range of the Discus extends from the Amazon to the Rio Negro Regions of South America.
The Blue Diamond Discus requires an advanced level of care due to its feeding habits and water filtration requirements. Territorial during spawning, this otherwise peaceful fish is among the schooling group, forming a well-defined nuclear family.

Becoming slightly territorial when breeding, it is best to breed an established pair, or maintain a group of young Discus and allow them to pair themselves. Warm, soft, slightly acidic water is required for spawning. The pair will clean a flat surface (usually a broad leaf or the side of the aquarium) prior to spawning. The parents must not be removed from the fry; the fry feed on their parents' mucus.

Largely carnivorous, the Blue Diamond Discus prefer freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, pellet food designed for Discus, high-quality flake food, and meaty frozen foods.


Blue Diamond Discus

Care LevelModerate
TemperamentPeaceful
Color FormBlue
DietCarnivore
Water Conditions79-86° F, KH 1-3, pH 6.1-7.5
Max. Size8"
OriginCaptive-Bred, Malaysia
FamilyCichlidae
Minimum Tank Size55 gallons
CompatibilityView Chart


The Blue Diamond Discus has been selectively bred for its brilliant blue coloration. It's distinguishing feature is the small white markings on it's body. However, the overall coloration of Discus will vary depending on mood and overall health of the fish. The Discus has surpassed the Angelfish as the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Depending on sub-species, the natural range of the Discus extends from the Amazon to the Rio Negro Regions of South America.
The Blue Diamond Discus requires an advanced level of care due to its feeding habits and water filtration requirements. Territorial during spawning, this otherwise peaceful fish is among the schooling group, forming a well-defined nuclear family.
Becoming slightly territorial when breeding, it is best to breed an established pair, or maintain a group of young Discus and allow them to pair themselves. Warm, soft, slightly acidic water is required for spawning. The pair will clean a flat surface (usually a broad leaf or the side of the aquarium) prior to spawning. The parents must not be removed from the fry; the fry feed on their parents' mucus.
Largely carnivorous, the Blue Diamond Discus prefer freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, pellet food designed for Discus, high-quality flake food, and meaty frozen foods.
Approximate Purchase Size: 2" to 3-1/2"


Blue Diamond Discus


Blue Diamond Discus

(Symphysodon spp.)

Quick Care Facts
Care Level: Moderate

Temperament: Peaceful

Maximum Size: 8"

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons

Water Conditions: 78-86° F, KH 1-3, pH 6.0-7.5

Diet: Omnivore

Origin: Amazon, South America

Family: Cichlidae

Species: Discus

Aquarium Type: Community

Species Information

Blue Diamond Discus were originally developed by breeders from Malaysia and Hong Kong, who found that some Blue Turquise Discus fry were transparent in color. When these transparent fry were grown out, their bodies were solid blue in color without any markings or patterns on their body, gill covers or fins. Quality Blue Diamond Discus should exhibit a solid blue body and red eyes, with some specimens exhibiting a slight yellow coloration on the caudal (tail) fin.

Wild Discus originate from the Amazon River Systems of South America, where they were first imported into the aquarium hobby in the early 1930s. Ever since their introduction into the hobby to this day, Discus are considered one of the most colorful, demanding, rewarding and expensive of all tropical freshwater aquarium fish species. Due to their popularity and the high price tag that they command, Discus are very popular with fish breeders.

Over the years breeders have not only raised enough tank-bred specimens to largely fulfill the demand from the aquarium hobby, but have developed completely new color strains and patterns as well. Discus are very popular amongst intermediate to advanced fish keepers, and are widely considered to be one of the most rewarding and challenging to keep of the freshwater tropical community fish species available within the hobby.

In the wild, Discus are found living in the upper tributaries of the Rio Negro and Rio Madiera along with the surrounding lakes and flood plains. The water is very low in mineral content, which makes it "soft" water with a low pH ranging from 4.0 to 7.0. The water also maintains very stable and consistent water parameters year round, including water temperatures that range between 80 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit both during the day and night.

When keeping Blue Diamond Discus in the home aquarium, it is extremely important to replicate their natural surroundings and water parameters as closely as possible. It is also very important to maintain very consistent water parameters that have very little pH, temperature and dissolved mineral fluctuations.

Aquarium Care

Blue Diamond Discus aquariums should closely resemble their natural Amazonian habitat with plenty of plants and branching root. Water parameters should be very consistent with a pH near 6.8 to 7.2, temperature between 82° to 86° Fahrenheit with low to medium water currents. Discus can thrive in a wider range of water parameters as long as the changes are not sudden and the fish has adequate time to adjust to changing parameters. Blue Diamond Discus should not be housed with aggressive or boisterous fish species or in aquariums with intense lighting or strong water currents.

If strong aquarium lighting is used for plant growth, be sure that the density of the plant life is great enough to provide shaded areas for the Blue Diamond Discus to retreat to when needed. Strong biological and mechanical filtration along with weekly partial water changes are required to keep water quality high and water parameters consistent.

When keeping Discus with live plants, it is best to keep the aquarium pH between 6.0 to 6.8 and a lower water hardness of 150 PPM or less. Lastly, be sure to maintain excellent water quality at all times as Discus do not leave a lot of room for error when it comes to water quality and consistency. Recommended tank mates include: most Tetra species, loaches, cory catfish, smaller Plecostomus species, Siamese Algae Eaters, Ottocinclus, Rams, peaceful Rasbora species, Rainbow fish, Hatchet fish and Pencilfish.

Breeding Information

Being closely related to the freshwater Amazonian Angelfish, it was assumed that Discus breeding requirements would be the same. Early hobbyists removed the eggs, attempted to hatch them in a separate tank and grow the fry on. We now know this is not possible with Discus because fry consume the mucus excreted from the sides of the parents. Discus were not successfully spawned until the late fifties with Jack Wattley in America and Eduard Schmidt-Focke in Germany doing the pioneering work.

During the 1970s breeders began to concentrate on producing more colorful Discus with a broader range of colors and patterns. They selectively bred specimens for their blue striations that eventually produced Turquoise and Cobalt Discus, while other breeders intensified the natural red striations that later produced Blue Diamond Discus and Blue Diamond Discus.

The 1980s and 1990s saw an explosion in new Discus mutations with the development of the Ghost, Snake Skin, Pigeon Blood, Blue Diamond, Snow White and Albino Discus variations. Through selective breeding, todays aquarium hobbyists can choose from a wide variety of brightly colored and varied patterned Discus now available within the hobby.

Feeding & Nutrition

Blue Diamond Discus should be fed a variety of nutritional meaty foods including: white worms, blood worms, Tubifex worms, high protein pellet and flake foods. Juvenile Blue Diamond Discus should be fed at least 3 to 5 times per day, while adult specimens should be fed 2 to 3 times per day. Their overall diet should be higher in proteins and fats then the average tropical fish species.

As with most other fish species, they should be fed an amount of food that they will consume within 10 minutes, with leftover foods removed from the system by either a quality mechanical filter or manually if strong filtration is not present.

Beautiful Blue Diamonds Discus



Common Name: Blue Diamond Discus, Discus
Scientific Name: Symphysodon Aequifaciatus sp.
Average Adult Fish Size: 8 inches / 20 cm
Place of Origin: Amazon basin of S. America
Typical Tank Setup: Well planted with driftwood / bogwood and some rock work.
Recommended Minimum Aquarium Capacity: 40 gallon / 160 litre
Compatibility: Discus are a very peaceful fish and should be kept with other peaceful fish like some of the S. American dwarf cichlid species and tetras. They do best when kept as a group of 6 or more.
Temperature: 82 – 88 Deg F / 28 – 30 Deg C
Water Chemistry: Juvenile and wild F1 Discus generally require softer water and a lower pH than tank raised Discus. The best thing is to simulate the conditions your Discus were raised in. Wild Discus require pH 6.0 – 6.5 while tank raised Discus can go all the way up to 8.0 pH.
Feeding: When purchasing, always ask what they are being fed. Discus can be quite particular when it comes to food, but can be trained to readily accept almost any type of food. Tank mates that eat the food that you want them to eat will encourage Discus to eat it also. They WILL eat a broad range of foods from flakes, small pellets, frozen, and live worms along with brine shrimp, but not always on the first attempt. DO NOT feed them tubifex worms. Tubifex carries too many pathogens and the risk of introducing disease to your Discus is too great a risk. Hole-in-the-head disease (HITH) is associated with poor water quality and feeding tubifex.
Sexing: Venting is the best way to sex Discus.
Breeding: Discus will lay their eggs on broad leaved plants like Amazon Swords or almost any vertical flat surface that is to their liking. Fry are best kept with the parents as they will eat the slime that the parents secrete. At two weeks of age they will start to accept finely ground flake food or baby brine shrimp.
Additional Information: There are almost too may different color variations of Discus with new ones coming out all the time. They are not difficult to keep as long as water parameters and temperature are to their liking. They can be a shy fish, because of this the aquarium should not be placed in high traffic areas where people are always walking by. A novice fish keeper will have better success with Discus that are larger than 3 inches in size.
Blue Diamond Discus were originally developed by breeders from Malaysia and Hong Kong, who found that some Blue Turquise Discus fry were transparent in color. When these transparent fry were grown out, their bodies were solid blue in color without any markings or patterns on their body, gill covers or fins. Quality Blue Diamond Discus should exhibit a solid blue body and red eyes, with some specimens exhibiting a slight yellow coloration on the caudal (tail) fin. Wild Discus originate from the Amazon River Systems of South America, where they were first imported into the aquarium hobby in the early 1930s. Ever since their introduction into the hobby to this day, Discus are considered one of the most colorful, demanding, rewarding and expensive of all tropical freshwater aquarium fish species. Due to their popularity and the high price tag that they command, Discus are very popular with fish breeders. Over the years breeders have not only raised enough tank-bred specimens to largely fulfill the demand from the aquarium hobby, but have developed completely new color strains and patterns as well. Discus are very popular amongst intermediate to advanced fish keepers, and are widely considered to be one of the most rewarding and challenging to keep of the freshwater tropical community fish species available within the hobby.

Tips on Increasing Discus Spawn Yields



If you are not getting many discus fry from your discus breeding pair spawns, then try some of these tips below to hopefully help maximize your discus spawn yields.
Lower Water Hardness in Breeder Tank- This is probably the first tip to try if your discus spawns are having terrible hatch rates. Having hard water in your discus breeding aquarium will cause the shell of the newly laid discus eggs to harden quickly. This makes it very difficult for the male discus to fertilize these eggs. Try lowering your water hardness to around 100 to 200 microsiemens. The softer water should give the male plenty of time to fertilize the spawn.
Keep Breeder Tank Super Clean - It's important to keep your breeder aquarium very clean. Wipe down all the sides and surfaces when doing a water change. Try to do at least two 25% water changes during the week. Clean water will reduce the chances of bad bacteria or fungus killing your discus spawn. Keep your filters clean as well.
Use a Diatom Filter - A diatom filter will help super clean your breeder tank. Diatomaceous earth filters can filter the water down to 1 micron. They'll even remove parasites, like gill flukes, that are a common killer of small discus fry. The best time to use the diatom filter is right after you've cleaned the breeder tank and did a water change. You only need to run the diatomaceous earth filter for a few hours.
Clean all Spawning Surfaces - It's important to keep the discus fish spawning surfaces clean in your breeder aquarium. Clean all spawning slates, bricks, cones or PVC pipes in your aquarium at least twice a week.
Methylene Blue - Adding Methylene Blue to your discus breeding tank after they've finished spawning will help protect the eggs from bacteria and fungus. Just remember that methylene blue will probably stain the silicon seals in your glass aquarium.
Protect Spawn with Wire Mesh - Many large spawns are lost because the pair will eat the eggs or wrigglers. Try putting a stainless steel wire mesh around the spawn so the pair can still take care of the eggs and wrigglers, but will be unable to eat them.
Remove the Bad Discus Parent - Many times it's only one mate of the discus breeding pair that has an appetite for eggs or wrigglers. Monitor a spawn to see which one is eating the eggs and remove it from the breeding tank. Don't leave the baby fry with the lone parent for a long time, especially if it's a large spawn. Start feeding baby brine shrimp 2 days after the fry are free swimming.
Use Surrogate Discus Parents - If you have a pair that constantly eats it's spawn, you might want to remove the eggs and put them in a tank with another discus pair that also has a spawn. With luck, the other pair will take care of the 2nd spawn as its own.
Treat Pair For Gill Flukes - If your discus fry starts dying when they are pea size, they probably have gill flukes. Treat the discus breeding tank for gill flukes.
Stop Water Flow Near Spawn Area- If your pairs are in a central system, you might want to reduce or even stop water flow from entering the breeding aquarium while the discus pairs are spawning. Strong water current can flush the sperm away from the eggs causing them to remain unfertile.
Filters or airstones near a spawn can also cause the water flow to flush away the male's sperm from the spawn. Move the filters or airstones away from pair while they are spawning. You might even want to turn off the filter while they are spawning. Just remember to turn it back on after the discus pair has finished spawning(usually less than 45 minutes).
Try Using Another Male Discus - Unfortunately, many male discus are not as fertile as their owners would like them to be. Some causes might be from too much inbreeding or hormones given to them to enhance color when they were young. If your discus pair has spawned many times with very few eggs ever becoming fertile, you probably should replace the male discus with another fish. If it's a young pair, you might want to give them more time. A young male discus might need many spawns before he gets the fertilization process right. Breeding discus takes patience.
Artificially Raise the Spawn - If both discus fish parents are egg eaters, wriggler eaters and free swimming fry eaters, then you just might have to take the eggs away from them and artificially raise the discus spawn yourself.


Discus fish Information


Introduction to Discus Fish


Discus fish is the most beautiful of all tropical fish which is also known as Cobalt Discus, Blue Discus, Blue Faced Discus, Blue-Head Discus, Red Thunder Discus etc. They are also sometimes called the King of Aquarium fish. It is native to the Amazon River basin and its natural range extends down the Rio Solimões and along the main Amazon River between the Rio Putamayo in Colombia and Peru as far as the Rio Tocantins drainage in Brazil. It inhabits in the still or slow moving, soft, acidic waters and they prefer to live in deep sheltered areas around tree roots and rocks. It is a very friendly fish and it is often found in large groups in their native habitats and it likes to stay in the shadow during the day.






Discus fish’s Overview


It is one of the most popular ornamental fish species in the world. Body is almost circular or disc shaped with strong lateral compression. It has small mouth with a steep rising forehead, small bright red eyes and large extended fins. The body has nine dark and vertical stripes and their body base colors usually range from dark brownish to blue and green hues. They are also spotted and striated with blotches of black, yellow and red pigmentation. Dorsal and Anal fins are rounded with a long base while the caudal fin is indented and the pelvic fins are saber shaped. It is a carnivore fish and in wild condition, it mainly feeds on small fish and fry along with larvae, other aquatic insects and invertebrates such as worms. It prefers water chemistry with pH of 6.0-6.5, water hardness of 10 – 150 dGH and water temperature of 82.0 to 88.0° F. It can grow up to 22 cm in length and 250 grams in weight. It can live up to 10 years or more.
Background of Discus Fish


The Discus was first described by Dr. Heckel in 1840 and it was first imported into the United States and Europe in 1930 and 1940, respectively. It belongs to the family Cichlidae under order Perciformes of class Actinopterygii. According to Fishbase, there are three species of discus fish such as Symphysodon aequifasciatus – Blue Discus, Symphysodon discus– Heckel or Red Discus and Symphysodon tarzoo– Tarzoo Discus. Today, the Discus is listed as a Threatened species in the IUCN Red Data List due to over exploitation.

Feeding Discus Fish


Discus are a carnivore fish and in wild condition, they mainly feeds on small fish and


fry along with larvae, other aquatic insects and invertebrates such as worms.


In captive condition, generally they accept a wide variety of all kinds of live and frozen


foods such as live brine shrimp, bloodworms, chopped beef heart and white worms.


It also eats Tetra Min flakes, Tetra Color Bits, Tetra Prima, spirulina flakes, spinach,


discus pellets and small fish. Feed should be supplied 2-3 times a day.






Housing Discus Fish


The Discus fish is one of the more difficult tropical fish to keep and it is not


recommended for beginners. This fish requires 50 gallons aquarium with good water


movement along with strong and efficient filtration. Carbon filtration can help


maintain water quality. Discus fish prefers excellent water conditions with warm,


soft and slightly acidic water. The tank should have an open area for swimming with


some aquatic plants like the Dwarf Lily Bulbs, Water Onions, Ozelot Swords,


Rangeri Swords and fern and moss type plants like the Java Fern and Subulata.


It is a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of around 6 individuals or more.


Suitable tank mates include Characin species like the Cardinal Tetra, Neon Tetra,


Rummynose Tetra, Glowlight Tetra, Emperor Tetra or Congo Tetra. It should not be


kept with Angelfishes and Corydoras Catfish. Discus fish is very sensitive to water


fluctuations and at least 25 % tank water should be changed every week to make


the tank environment healthy.


Breeding Discus Fish


The blue discus is an egg layers and it can breed in captive condition.


The female lays 200-400 eggs which attach to plants, driftwoods, rocks and


ornamentations in the aquarium. The eggs are fertilized by the male after the


eggs are all laid. Water conditions for breeding should be slightly acidic, soft and


warm with a pH of about 6.0 – 6.5, hardness of about 10 – 150 dGH and the


temperature should be between 82 – 88° F. The parents guard the eggs.


Eggs hatch in about 2 days. The parents should remain with the fry.


The fry feed on skin secretions from the parents for the first 10 days, after


which the parents should be removed from the tank.


The fry should be fed with brine shrimp.

Sexing discus fish


It is hard to distinguish the sex. During breeding season, the males bear more pointed


papillae while the female’s papilla is rounded. Males may be larger and some males


have a more pointed dorsal fin and thicker lips.


Discus Fish for sale and where to buy


This fish is often considered as the most beautiful of all freshwater fish.


It is called the King of the Cichlids by many hobbyists. It is available in pet store,


breeders, especially dealers and online. It is moderate to moderately expensive.


Prices vary depending on size and variety. There are many online vendors that


specifically sell Discus. See below online vendor and you can buy your favorite


fish that I would recommend from.






Caring for Discus Fish

Discus - also called Pompadour - fish are one of the most beloved group of species for aquarium lovers. Discus (Symphysodon), in their three species, are cichild fish from the Amazon river. These species require a well-adapted aquarium due to their particular constitution.
The temperature, pH and hardness of the water, as well as the vegetation and decoration of their new habitat, must be perfectly adjusted to preserve their health. To learn more, stay here at AnimalWised and read our guide on caring for discus fish.

Aquarium

An aquarium for discus fish must have a capacity of at least 300 liters. The temperature must be steady at 28º C (82.5º F); below 26º C (78.8º F), your discus fish will get sick.
The water's pH must be 6, and the general hardness index - the dGH - must be of 5. This means that the water must be soft.

Decorating the aquarium

Discus fish are native of the Amazon river. They inhabit slow, slightly murky backwaters; these kind of waters are also inhabited by piranhas in large numbers, so discus fish require dense aquatic vegetation to take refuge from their sharp, hungry teeth. You should reconstruct this habitat in your aquarium with the appropriate plants.
You should have floating plants and ferns like Salvinia or Pistia on the surface of the aquarium; they will soften the light from the fluorescent lights, which if they are too harsh are very disagreeable for discus fish. At the bottom of the aquarium you should have plants like dwarf ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora), Anubias or burheads (Echinodorus).
The aquarium should be lined with pebbles, that is, small stones that have been rubbed smooth by the water currents. Branches without any sharp parts can also be useful. However, there must be enough space left in the aquarium for the fish to swim around freely.

Cohabiting with other fish

Discus fish, like most cichlids, are aggressive towards both their own and other species. Nonetheless, while they're small they can cohabit with other smaller fish so that the aquarium doesn't look so empty.
These fish can cohabit for a time with false red nose tetra (Petitella georgiae), neon tetra (Paracheirodon innesi), cardinal tetra (Paracheirodon axelrodi) or black phantom tetra (Hyphessobrycon megalopterus). Catfish like Corydoras or plecostomus are also good for this aquarium set-up.
Discover types of fish for a community aquarium on AnimalWised.

Dominant discus fish

Discus fish are aggressive towards their own kind; there will always be one fish who will become dominant, have its own territory and be the first one to it. A 300-liter aquarium can hold three discus fish. However, such a small number creates a risk: If you have a dominant male and a dominant female, the third fish will have a hard time. This is an understatement - it can die of stress,
This is why it's recommendable to have four or five discus fish, which will ease the pressure on the non-dominant fish. If you choose to do that, though, you'll have to take into account that you'll need 100 extra liters per new fish.

Feeding discus fish

Without a doubt, one of the most important aspects to take into account when caring for discus fish is their diet. Specialized pet stores sell specific feed for discus fish, both live (Tubifex) and in flakes. Your veterinarian will advise you on the best food for your discus fish.
It's best to feed them twice a day, changing the food so they can have a balanced diet. It's good if they don't eat once a week.

Caring for their aquarium

If you want to take good care of your discus fish, you should take these tips into account:
  • Check the temperature, acidity and hardness of the water every day, correcting all observed deviations as soon as possible.
  • Change 10% of the water once a week to monitor the nitrate level and keep it low

A GUIDE TO CARING & BREEDING FOR DISCUS FISH

Discus

A GUIDE TO CARING & BREEDING FOR DISCUS FISH

Discus are colorful, graceful and charismatic tank inhabitants. Discus are considered to require a higher level of care than other aquarium fish. Their basic requirements are a larger aquarium (3ft+ is recommended) and stable, clean water. For this reason alone they are not recommended for the beginner aquarist. Discus can be housed with many any other fish as long as they require the same water conditions. They are not compatible with larger aggressive fish such as oscar's or smaller fin nipping varieties.
For more information on a specific type of discus, click on the below links.
Discus do best with smaller tetra’s such as neon tetras, cardinal tetras, ember tetras, harlequin tetras and rummynose tetras. Tetras are usually the most common compliment to discus as they contrast the size and add movement to the aquarium.

Temperature ~84°F

  • The optimum aquarium temperature for Discus is around 82°F - 88°F (28°C-31°C). Note that higher temperatures such as these lower dissolved oxygen and limit the number of fish housed in the aquarium. When choosing other fish to go in the aquarium try and fit them in this temperature bound.

pH ~6.5 | Hardness 4.0

  • Keep your pH between about 6 and 7. The ideal pH for discus is around 6.5. If your pH is over 7 or below 6 it may begin to cause discus stress. Tank bred Discus species have been known to thrive in pH as high as 7.8 as long as there is little/no fluctuation.
  • Relative water hardness should be 1dH - 8dH. This will replicate relatively soft conditions similar to the amazon. Some tank bred variety's are known to withstand higher dH. Water hardness can be softened with the addition of a piece of diftwood to the aquarium water.

Max Size ~6.5"

  • Both males and females can grow to around 6.5" (16.5cm) over the course of two years.

Nitrite 0ppm

  • Discus are highly susceptible to even very low levels of nitrite in the aquarium.

Ammonia 0ppm

  • Discus are very sensitive to any ammonia levels. There will be noticeable loss of color and heavy breathing if ammonia is present. An immediate water change is required.

Nitrate >20ppm

  • Nitrates should be as close to 0ppm as possible. Any reading under 20ppm is suitable for keeping Discus, elevated levels can be reduced by adding aquatic plants and removing any decaying matter.

Water Changes >50%

  • Discus require the aquarium water should be changed at least 50% each week to reduce nitrates and replenish minerals. Discus are messy feeders and big contributors to nitrates in the aquarium. Be sure to dechlorinate the water before it is changed.

Housing Discus

  • Discus are usually combined with planted aquariums. Planted tanks with CO2 injection will usually exhibit a lower pH of around 6.8 which is perfect for Discus. Discus, originally a species from the amazon will feel right at home with a mixture of long stem plants and lower foreground plants. Driftwood is also an excellent compliment that will help these fish feel at home. It will add to the beauty of the aquarium and it will also soften the water and lower the pH to a suitable environment.
  • Alternatively, Discus can be housed in a bare bottomed tank. Some hobbyists believe this is the best way to care for discus even though it is not as aesthetically pleasing. Having no substrate allows the tank to be easily cleaned from faeces and rotting debris. This is a sure way to keep the water quality stable and immaculate. When breeding Discus it is highly recommended to put them into a bare bottomed tank. This has a number of advantages including a safe environment for the young and easy aquarium maintenance.

Acclimatizing the Discus

  • Ensure the aquarium has been chemically tested and it is within the parameters listed above. Discus are susceptible to rapid changes in water quality.
  • It is an excellent idea to add a deworming medication while acclimatizing your discus and they are not in the aquarium. It may compound stress to the introduction process, but healthy discus are usually quite resilient for shorter periods of stress. This will ensure your aquarium and discus are free of any parasites and remain healthy in the long term.
  • Using air-line tubing and a rubber band, create a siphon from the aquarium and kink the tubing by placing the rubber band over a bent section of the tube. Adjust the kink to allow a slow drip of 1-3 drops of water per second exiting the tube into a bucket or other with the discus. Let this drip into the bucket for the next 20-30 minutes and monitor closely.
  • After 20-30 minutes carefully use a soft mesh net to transfer the discus into the aquarium and monitor their progress.
  • If a situation does arise check the water immediately for both temperature and chemical parameters. Perform a water change and try to identify the problem.

Feeding Discus

  • Discus will usually take a variety of foods, but due to their carnivorous nature they do best with blood worms, beef heart and then pellets and flakes to provide them with vitamins and minerals.
  • For the best coloration of discus you will need to feed them a varied diet of processed and frozen live foods. Granules are usually the best processed option as discus prefer to feed from the middle of the tank. Discus are usually less fond of feeding at the surface. Live or Frozen Bloodworms in a small feeder cone are great. Beware of live blackworms as they often carry parasites that can cause your discus to become unwell.
  • Frozen Beef heart that is broken up is an excellent treat for discus. The downside of beef heart is it can pollute the tank, so be sure to do regular maintenance and turn off the filters during feeding time.

Breeding Discus - Requirements

  • Discus will readily reproduce in the aquarium but you may need to dedicate months, even a year (if you start out with juveniles) to the prospect. Until recently they had only successfully been bred in captivity a few times and only then by dedicated individuals. However very recently hobbyists have had widespread success breeding discuss by following a few key steps.
  • A Discus couple will not spawn in an aquarium that is too shallow. You will need a depth of at least 15 inches due to their tall shape. Smaller 15" cube aquariums can be used for breeding especially because they allow close contact of the breeding partners. However a deeper 36 inches x 18 inches x 18 inches aquarium would be spacious and humane for a suitable breeding pair.
  • Make sure the temperature is above 82 F, it needs to be a warmer climate to try and coax them into mating behavior. Replicating the summer and therefore 'rainy' climate of the amazon is a common tool in breeding aquarium fish.
  • The pH will need to be kept as close to 6.5 as possible and as stable as possible. The summer amazon rainstorms collect substrate and mud in the wild softening the water. The aquarium water will need to be as soft as possible from 1-4dH. Soft water has poor buffering ability hence it is important to check the water each day to ensure the parameters remain stable (especially pH). You will need to keep nitrates at a minimum by performing water changes every week and siphoning out the waste. About 30-50% will be perfect. These water changes are important and also signify breeding conditions to the breeding Discus.
  • When feeding breeding Discus, protein rich foods are the best choice. Diversifying food sources will help to balance the Discus diet. Professional breeders use beef heart but this should also be combined with bloodworms and vegetable matter such as spinach to aid in vitamin uptake. To keep them in good health use some high grade tropical granules twice a week to supply them with the required nutrients and vitamins they may be lacking.
  • Placing an upturned clay pot or cone in the discus tank will give a hard surface for the discus to lay eggs on. Be sure the surface is clean and will not pollute the aquarium. Professional plastic cones are sold on line that have been used with proven results. These may be a good consideration to increase laying chances.

Breeding Discus - Raising Young

  • Place the spawning medium in the center of the aquarium. The discus will spawn eggs on one side and portion of the cone. The discus will begin cleaning the medium in preparation by constantly 'sucking' at the surface.
  • If the discus have not visibly begun to clean the cone, recheck the water quality and ensure they are being fed consistently. It is at this stage it is imperative to ensure the water is soft. This is crucial in the formation of the eggs shell. In hard water conditions, Discus eggs can form an impenetrable shell which young cannot break.
  • This stage is the longest of all stages and unfortunately the stage where chemistry is realized. Some discus pairs will never mate in the wild and many more will never mate in captivity. Tank bred Discus have a much higher chance of spawning when compared to wild Discus. This stage requires patience and careful monitoring.
  • When and if the discus spawn in this stage, they will lay eggs every week for up to fifteen weeks. This cycle usually occurs twice a year and can be rigged with careful adjustment of feeding, temperature and water conditions. This point is extremely rewarding, Discus mate for life and will hopefully continue to mate for years ahead.
  • After courting the eggs will then be laid on the cone or pots surface. They will be very small, mildly opaque spheres stuck to the cone in the order of thousands. The Discus will care for the eggs by constantly fanning them for aeration. The parenting Discus will even pick off and consume the unfertilized eggs to eliminate the chance of disease spreading to healthy eggs.
  • From this stage the eggs will hatch within 48 hours. When the eggs hatch you they do not have to be fed directly as they instinctively feed off a secretion delivered from their mother. After 48 hours they should be free swimming and growing very quickly.
  • Fry can stay with their parents for a lengthy period of time. However in captivity the young can become very aggressive and begin to remove scales from their mother. At the week old stage it is advisable to remove the parent Discus from the aquarium for their own safety. It is at this point it is necessary to raise the young with commercial food.
  • Carefully cared for discus fry can yield survival rates of up to 70%. It is recommended to only sell the Discus young when they reach at least 2" in size. This is to ensure they are strong enough for travel and acclimatization into a new aquarium.